A long way down June 11, 2006
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Travel , trackbackThe Samaria gorge is rumoured to be the longest in Europe (though the gorges du Verdon may contest that claim), running from high in Crete’s White Mountains to the sea. It’s a well-beaten trail, followed by thousands each year, though not for the faint hearted or unfit.
After a long, early bus journey from Hania to Omalos at the top of the gorge, you arrive, pay your 5euros and look over the cliff, through the conifers to the start of the walk.
The first three or four kilometers are the hardest, and the steepest. After twenty minutes, I’d seen two injured people, and was really starting to wonder whether this was a good idea. Although the path is very well built with steps and handrails, its still hard going. The views are worth it though, and looking back after the first, hardest part is spectacular.
Further down, the going gets easier, and by the time I got to the half way mark, at the abandoned village of Samaria, it was much easier. The gorge starts to close in after that, and you’re walking down the riverbed which must have been a raging torrent a few weeks earlier as the snow melted, but is now a rocky path with the limestone and chert walls looming hundreds of metres above. The folds in the rock tell the story of the orogeny here, and had I been a little less exhausted, it would have been interesting to see what I could make of them.
All the way down, there are wildflowers and trees, providing much needed shade and beautiful to see if you have the energy to enjoy, rather than just trying to put one foot in front of the other.
After 13 kms, the park ends, though the track still has a couple of kilometers to go before it reaches Agia Roumeli and the sea. The last part is very easy, on a sealed road, though if it was hot could be hard.
It’s very easy to do this by public transport, by catching the bus from Hania at 0615 or 0730, and then, from Agia Roumeli, catching the ferry to Hora Sfakion, where the return bus will wait for you. The ferry ride is an added bonus, with quick views of the villages along the coast which have no road access so can only be reached by boat. In the airport on the way home, I met a couple who had stayed in Loutros, one of these villages, and had loved it for its peace and quiet. Maybe next time.
A few thoughts if you’re contemplating this walk:
- I am not very fit, but I do walk a lot, and this was at the limit
of my ability. It has taken me about 3 days to recover, and is
particularly hard on the knees. Think carefully about whether you’re
really up to it. I wish I’d been fitter, because I would have enjoyed
it a lot more. - People in Hania seem to think it takes about 4 hours. They must
be very fit indeed – it took me about 7, including breaks, and I don’t
think that’s unusual. - Make sure you have good shoes, with ankle support, particularly for the rocky parts.
- Take sticks. You can buy them in Hania, and I wish I’d had one
to save the knees. I can’t emphasise this enough – in 16kms, you will
descend about 1200m, and about half of that is in the first 4kms. That
is a very steep gradient, and if you’re not used to it, it is a
killer. - Take food. There is plenty of clean water in the park, though
you’ll need a bottle for it, but you will be in there 5-7 hours, and
working hard, so make sure you’ve something to eat. - The Rough Guide is rather pessimistic about the distance. All
up, its about 15kms, not 18. That last 3 km would make quite a
difference. - I don’t think this would be much fun in July and August. The day
I did it, the temperature in Agia Roumeli was about 23C, with a breeze,
so quite pleasant, but at 30C or higher, it would be very hard indeed. - If you’re on your own, don’t worry. There are lots of people, and if you do have an accident, there is a good warden service who will pick you up on a mule and walk you out. Apparently there are helicopters if something really serious happens.
Comments»
It sounds like a wonderful walk. Good on you for having the courage to attempt it. I hope others are inspired by your example.