Mundaka, Basque country August 29, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Miscellany , 2 commentsI write this sitting on the terrace of the Hotel el Puerto, looking out over the tiny fishing port of Mundaka, the red / green and white double cross flag of the Basques flying high on the waterfront. I have a glass of txacoli, a pintxos of jamon on bread, and another of cod with a pepper, and have even found a working wireless. There is a cool breeze, but the sun is shining and although that makes it hard to see the laptop screen, its pleasantly warm. I must look like an advertisement for Toshiba. If only I could work in these sort of surroundings.
Mundaka is a tiny town, about half an hour from Guernika, and an hour from Bilbao, on the North Atlantic coast of Spain. It is famous for its surf, with one of the best left breaks in the world, although the sea has been very calm the last couple of days. There are a lot of holiday makers here - French, a few American, and Spaniards. Its obviously a Basque town though - no street sign concessions to Castillian and political graffiti and hoardings calling for amnesties and the return of Basque prisoners sent to prisons in other parts of Spain.
Apart from a nice beach, there’s not much here. It is at the head of an important estuary, which is a national park, and has some important wetlands, but its a place to relax and enjoy the scenery.
Although touristy, its all small hotels and apartments, none of the big developments of the mediterranean coast.
So far, I’ve tried two restaurants, one excellent, one rather a ripoff. At the first, Bodegon Mundaka, on the harbour, I had the excellent Sopa de Pescado - fish soup is becoming my litmus test of restaurants in this part of the world - and this tasted as good as it smelt, rich and sumptuous. Get a window table, looking out over the harbour. The restaurant has an open coal barbeque, which most fish and steaks are cooked on, and is a family concern. Its a fairly conventional Spanish menu, but the fish is exceptionally fresh, hardly surprising given the numbers obviously swimming in the harbour.
Last night I tried La Fonda, a hundred metres up from the wharf, and was sorely disappointed. A convential, straight out of the can ‘mixed salad’, and a fish soup that tasted like it was out of a can as well. They charged 5 euros for half a litre of water, and whereas water, wine and bread were 8.50 euros at the Bodegon, the half bottle of wine was 13 euros alone. So tonight, I’m back to the Bodegon.
I’m staying at the Hotel Mundaka, which is small, full of character, friendly and comfortable.
And then, I stopped. And have only just found this post when I turned on the little Toshiba laptop I took to Spain for the first time since I came back. So here it is.
How to Be Free, by Tom Hodgkinson August 28, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Reviews , 2 commentsFreedom, at least in affluent places where liberal democracy runs strong, is a state of mind. Why then do so many erect their own prisons of debt, career, and other obligations which return little pleasure? In this book the editor of the Idler gives his advice to those who would like to cast off these self-imposed shackles and lead a freer life. Some ideas are very obvious (cut up the credit cards), others less so (learn the ukelele). Sharing my home might be difficult given its size, but I like the idea of lighting a candle so the lack of housework is less obvious.
He’s a bit idealistic about the wonders of Ye Merrie Olde Englande, but although I’m not convinced that people were happier when they had no choice but to grow their own vegetables, and pray their crops weren’t flooded and didn’t die of drought, choosing to do so now certainly seems to keep allotment owning friends happily entertained.
Despite CCTV and draconian anti-terror laws, we in this time and place have as good a chance as anyone ever has of living free, unencumbered lives and sometimes its good to be reminded of that.
Is it possible to read too much? August 25, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Miscellany , 1 comment so farA pile of about 10 books waiting to be reviewed and sent off to the nice folks at Amnesty makes me wonder if I just spend to much time with my nose in a novel. Its not unusual to get through 3 or 4 in a weekend, and I suspect Foyles and Waterstones would have to lay off staff if I stopped buying.
Reading is a very private pleasure, as I think someone once said, but it is also a very introverting one, with information and ideas coming in but very little going out again.
So, I’m sitting looking at the pile, and will write reviews of them timed to be released every few days. Or maybe I’ll just wander off and read another book.
Strings and Things August 16, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Reviews , add a commentI finally decide that, like it or not, ironing must happen or I will be wearing jeans to work tomorrow and as my current client is perhaps the most conservatively dressed institution in the City, that would not be a good thing.
After much searching, I locate iron and board in the spider-webbed back reaches of the hall cupboard and figure out how to set it all up. 2 summer suits and a shirt are hung from the door, and I turn on the radio, preparing myself for 20 minutes of mind-numbing boredom.
But this is Radio 4, and I find myself confronted with ‘Science Friction‘, a show highlighting scientific controversies. Tonight it’s the demise, or not, of string theory with an intelligent, civilised debate between two scientists, facilitated by Sue Nelson who doesn’t seem to need to prove that she’s the most important one in the conversation, so different from the Today programme. Does the unjustified popularity of string theory keep physicists away from other, more productive approaches to unified theories or is it merely waiting for the technology to catch up?
This is the stuff that makes the licence fee worth paying for. You can listen to it on the BBC website, and there’s another next week
Technorati Tags: science friction, radio 4
Boycott Whitcoulls! August 12, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Miscellany, New Zealand , add a commentNormally, I’m all in favour of New Zealand companies, but this appalling behaviour by ARW towards an Australian medium-sized publisher (hat-tip to Boing-Boing) would make me never darken the doorway of Whitcoulls or Bennetts again.
ARW (owners of Whitcoulls and Bennetts, as well as Australian chain Angus and Roberston) are demanding what amounts to protection money from publishers in a display of corporate arrogance which is truly astonishing. The response from the manager of the publishing company is a joy to read.
Interesting too that the ARW manager involved is ex-WH Smith. I wonder how common this practice is in the UK? This is why I love Foyles.
Technorati Tags: arw, extortion, whitcoulls, bennetts
¡Feliz Navidad! August 11, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Travel , add a commentIt’s only August, and already I’m thinking about Christmas. I like Christmas itself in the UK, the cold weather, parties and the lights in Oxford St, and my sister does a great Christmas day, but the week or two afterwards are normally pretty bleak. Friends are away. As a freelance, I’d prefer to work, but often can’t. Time to find some sun.
My Spanish is coming on well, and another language course would give it a real boost. I’m thinking about Andalucia this time, because the weather will be better than in the North. Possibly this one in Granada.
Alternatively, walking would do me the world of good, and if the weather is good, getting outside a lot at that time of the year keeps the winter blues at bay. I like the look of this, based in one place the whole time so if curling up with a good book appeals one day, there shouldn’t be a problem. Quiet and relaxing.
Decisions, decisions. And if anyone reading this has very good references and would like a central London flat with a cat to feed at that time of the year, drop me a line.
Technorati Tags: Christmas holidays, Spain
The stomach of the City August 7, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Cafes & Restaurants , add a commentIf Threadneedle St. is at the heart of the City, then its stomach is surely Simpson’s Tavern in the midst of the narrow alleyways that criss-cross the block bordered by Cornhill, Gracechurch St and Lombard St. This isn’t the City of smart bars filled with loud music and drunken young things, or the shining Gherkin nearby. Instead its the City of bowler hatted gents, leisurely trading their way through the day, a world which has all but disappeared into multinational corporations and computerised trading.
Established in 1757, it is one of the oldest chop-houses left in London, where your mind’s eye can see Boswell and Johnson at the next table, or Dickens, a little later. The booth seating was built for an age of smaller backsides, with racks for hats, and you will almost certainly share a table, or, if you do get one of the few one-sided booths, sit beside your dining companion. It’s not posh - the waitresses call you love rather than Madam, and the food is very traditional English with different specials every day. If you order the Chump Chop, take the ‘optional’ sausage as well.
All the better if you don’t have to go back to work. Today, it was mineral water with the Steak and Kidney Pie, but last time a bottle or two of something red with an underwriting friend did for me for the rest of an afternoon off.
Get there early, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy a little slice of London through the centuries.
Technorati Tags: simpson’s tavern, city
Online telly August 5, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Miscellany , 1 comment so farFinally, the age of digital broadcasting is upon us. Forget YouTube, Google Videos or whatever else you watch on the internet (and frankly, I don’t want to know). The BBC has finally put it’s digital version into Beta, and I’ve signed up.
I don’t own a telly, though I do have a card in my laptop that lets me get Freeview, but its a bit jerky and of course, I have to watch programmes when they’re on. Having been TV free ever since I’ve been in the UK, I’m completely out of the habit, and keep on forgetting.
So far, its a pretty solid beta. I downloaded it quite quickly (minutes on my 4Mb cable broadband), and got it installed with no problems, other than its rather unfriendly demand for Internet Explorer. Its tied up with Micro$oft digital rights management, so IE and Windows are compulsory. Logging on is a bit of a nuisance as there doesn’t seem to be any way of changing your usercode and password to something more memorable.
I downloaded my first programmes, Reisenback Falls and the documentary Ganges with no problems and in a few minutes for each. I also downloaded an episode of Dr Who which was very near to the 7 day limit, and when I came to watch it I couldn’t get a licence for it.
Watching the other two programmes was hasslefree, and far less jumpy than via Freeview. So, given that the few shows I ever watch are on the BBC, I think the freeview card can go on freecycle, and this is the way I’ll be watching TV from now on. I wonder if I still need my TV licence??
