Mundaka, Basque country August 29, 2007
Posted by CamdenKiwi in : Miscellany , trackbackI write this sitting on the terrace of the Hotel el Puerto, looking out over the tiny fishing port of Mundaka, the red / green and white double cross flag of the Basques flying high on the waterfront. I have a glass of txacoli, a pintxos of jamon on bread, and another of cod with a pepper, and have even found a working wireless. There is a cool breeze, but the sun is shining and although that makes it hard to see the laptop screen, its pleasantly warm. I must look like an advertisement for Toshiba. If only I could work in these sort of surroundings.
Mundaka is a tiny town, about half an hour from Guernika, and an hour from Bilbao, on the North Atlantic coast of Spain. It is famous for its surf, with one of the best left breaks in the world, although the sea has been very calm the last couple of days. There are a lot of holiday makers here – French, a few American, and Spaniards. Its obviously a Basque town though – no street sign concessions to Castillian and political graffiti and hoardings calling for amnesties and the return of Basque prisoners sent to prisons in other parts of Spain.
Apart from a nice beach, there’s not much here. It is at the head of an important estuary, which is a national park, and has some important wetlands, but its a place to relax and enjoy the scenery.
Although touristy, its all small hotels and apartments, none of the big developments of the mediterranean coast.
So far, I’ve tried two restaurants, one excellent, one rather a ripoff. At the first, Bodegon Mundaka, on the harbour, I had the excellent Sopa de Pescado – fish soup is becoming my litmus test of restaurants in this part of the world – and this tasted as good as it smelt, rich and sumptuous. Get a window table, looking out over the harbour. The restaurant has an open coal barbeque, which most fish and steaks are cooked on, and is a family concern. Its a fairly conventional Spanish menu, but the fish is exceptionally fresh, hardly surprising given the numbers obviously swimming in the harbour.
Last night I tried La Fonda, a hundred metres up from the wharf, and was sorely disappointed. A convential, straight out of the can ‘mixed salad’, and a fish soup that tasted like it was out of a can as well. They charged 5 euros for half a litre of water, and whereas water, wine and bread were 8.50 euros at the Bodegon, the half bottle of wine was 13 euros alone. So tonight, I’m back to the Bodegon.
I’m staying at the Hotel Mundaka, which is small, full of character, friendly and comfortable.
And then, I stopped. And have only just found this post when I turned on the little Toshiba laptop I took to Spain for the first time since I came back. So here it is.
Comments»
wow, already back in the basque countru cathryn! I didn’t realise you missed it so badly:) I passed Mundaka on my way to bermeo by bus, it seemed very peaceful and laid back. hope you’re all well over there, not harrassed by people who refuse to speak castellano… Un beso Linda
Wow, yeah, what an unforgotable staying in Mundaka. Despite we had to move to Bakio some days, finally the contest of the BillabongPro finished in Mundaka. The crown was really happy as the wait was worth. The little town placed on the coast looks like to be a fary tale. There are three little hotels, but I’d like to stand out the Apartamentos Mundaka http://www.apartamentosmundaka.com/ as it is the suitable place to relax with wonderful views to the stuary. The apartmanets are really lovely and the staff very charming.
I hope to come back next year Mundaka!!!!